Oh, Gratin

Well, January is here. The holidays have passed, and we’re getting ready to hunker down for a couple of cold-weather months. ’Tis the season to cook with storage vegetables and cuts of meats that take the better part of the day to cook. We crave dishes that are comforting and rich — dishes that come out of a hot oven bubbling and brown.

A gratin is less a specific style of dish and more of a cook- ing method. The Larousse Gastronomique defines a gratin as “the name given to dishes which, after having been subjected to intense heat in the oven or under the grill, acquire a crisp golden-brown crust.” Typically, breadcrumbs, cheese or a béchamel is added as the catalyst for the dish’s crispy caramelized top. And while gratin recipes can be dairy- and bread-heavy, you can easily substitute with non-dairy cheese and gluten- free bread.

You may be already making gratins — purposely or accidentally “browned” — including familiar favourites such as baked mac ’n’ cheese, ziti, lasagna, scalloped potatoes, tomatoes Provençal and veal, chicken or eggplant Parmesan. Often, these dishes are served in the vessel they are baked in, scooped from the centre of the table onto passed plates with eager requests for the extra-crispy corners or super-gooey middle pieces.