Horseradish Velouté

Put 1 pound of fresh mussels in a bowl of salted water (1 tablespoon salt per quart of water) for 10 to 15 minutes. Throw out any that are wide open or refuse to close when you handle them as these ones are likely dead.

Looking over the closed mussels, see if any still have their beards (long hairy byssal threads that help anchor the mussel to surfaces) and pull them out, pulling slowly and strongly towards the hinge of the shell.

In a large pot, add the white wine and mussels. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low. As the mussels cook, they will release their highly flavoured water into the pot. Cook until shells have opened and the mussels are just cooked, looking steamed and soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Take care not to overcook or the mussels will be rubbery.

Once the mussels are cooked, carefully remove them from the pot into a bowl, one-by-one using tongs, including those that have broken loose from their shells. Do not discard the liquid in the pot.

Let the water sit for a minute to allow the grit to settle to the bottom. Gently pour out the cooking water into a measuring cup, leaving the grit in the pot to discard later. If the water you've measured out is still a little gritty, filter using a sieve (or a coffee filter). Keep the mussels for another use. Reserve 1 cup of the mussel juice.

In a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the chopped shallots and cook until translucent. Add the minced garlic and cook a minute more. Slowly add the filtered mussel cooking water and about a cup of heavy cream and reduce by half. Add 1 tablespoon of the prepared horseradish and chive oil and gently stir to make a smooth sauce.

Makes approximately 1 cup sauce. Keep warm until ready to use.

Roast the Trout

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Over medium heat, in a skillet or small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallot and cook for about 3 minutes or until the shallot softens. Add the garlic and the lemon zest, cook for another minute. Cool slightly. Squeeze in half of the lemon juice.

Place the fish on the prepared baking sheet. If it's really big, lay it diagonally across the baking sheet. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the butter over the fish. Sprinkle with half of the minced dill.

Roast the fish in the oven for 7 to 12 minutes, depending on the fish's thickness. The best way to check for doneness is to use a fork to gently prick the fish — if it flakes easily, it's ready. Use several spatulas to take the fish off the baking sheet in one piece.

To Serve

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and prepare a bowl of ice water. Shuck the peas from their shells and blanch peas in boiling water for 30 seconds and then transfer to the ice water. Strain.

Pour 1/4 cup of the horseradish sauce and a drizzle of chive oil into each serving bowl. Place the baked trout on top of the sauce. Heat the peas with a teaspoon of butter, add the pea tendrils to the peas and season with shaved fresh horseradish, lemon zest, salt and furikake mix. Spoon the pea mixture over the trout and garnish with garden chive.