The Roast Beast with scalloped potatoes and winter vegetables

Asked to produce a plate that spoke to his culinary philosophy and personality, Ian Carswell chose something that also spoke to his small-town roots and his restaurant, Black Tartan Kitchen.

Photography By | February 01, 2021

Cooking

The roast beast

3-5 pounds tenderloin roast, cleaned of excess fat and silver skin
2 tablespoons rendered duck fat (room temperature)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ cup toasted buckwheat (coarsely ground)
Kosher salt
Black pepper (toasted and coarsely ground)
Maldon salt or fleur de sel (for finishing)

Brush the whole roast with duck fat and season with kosher salt and pepper. And don't be shy with the seasoning.

Lay out two sheets of plastic wrap on top of each other (approximately 1 foot long). Lay beef on the plastic wrap and roll tightly into a torchon, pinching the ends as you roll. Prick the plastic with a knife over any air pockets. Secure the ends when tight with another piece of plastic wrap or twine. Vacuum seal in an appropriately sized bag and cook sous- vide in a water bath pre-set to 131 F for 3 to 4 hours.

Unwrap the tenderloin from all packaging and plastic wrap and sear in a cast-iron pan on very high heat with a little bit of canola oil. There will probably be lots of smoke.

Brush seared meat with Dijon mustard and coat in toasted buckwheat. Slice and finish with Maldon salt or fleur de sel.

Scalloped potatoes

10 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes 4 cups of 35 per cent cream
½ pound butter
5 sprigs thyme
5 sprigs rosemary
5 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
Kosher salt
½ pound Gruyère cheese
½ pound Emmental cheese

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Shred the cheeses together and reserve.

Line a deep roasting pan with parchment paper. Combine cream, butter, herbs and salt in a pot (add more salt, as needed, until the mixture tastes like salted popcorn) and let it simmer lightly over medium to low heat.

Peel the potatoes then slice very thinly using a mandolin and add them to a mixing bowl. After counting to ensure you still have all your fingers, strain the simmered cream mixture over sliced potatoes to soften them. This will not fully cook the potatoes.

Layer the potatoes in a roasting pan with a light sprinkle of cheese between each layer. Make sure to reserve enough cheese to completely coat the top layer of potatoes.

When all the potatoes are in the pan, pour about a ½ cup of the cream mixture over the top. Coat the top layer of potatoes with the remaining cheese and cover the pan with aluminum foil.

Bake at 400 F until a knife can slide easily through the layers of potatoes (approximately 30 to 45 minutes.) Uncover and bake for another 10 minutes or until the top layer is golden brown.

Rutabaga purée

1 small rutabaga, peeled and diced small
2 carrots, peeled and diced small
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoon canola oil
Maple syrup, to taste
Milk, enough to cover vegetables
Kosher salt

Toss the diced carrot, rutabaga and garlic in canola oil, season and roast in oven at 400 F until lightly coloured (approximately 15 minutes).

Add the vegetables into a sauce pot and cover with milk. Simmer on low heat until the vegetables are soft, adding more milk, if necessary, as it will evaporate while cooking. Strain the solids into a blender and blend until very smooth. Use the excess liquid to thin mixture, as needed.

Season with maple syrup and kosher salt until desired balance of salty and sweet is achieved. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer.

Mushroom purée

1 pound mushrooms, cremini or button, sliced
1 Spanish onion
1 garlic clove
2 sprigs thyme, finely chopped
¼ cup butter
2 ounces whisky, such as Spicebox Whisky
1 to 2 cups 10 per cent cream
Kosher salt
Toasted black pepper (ground)

Melt butter in a saucepan and add the mushrooms, onion and garlic. Cook over medium heat until lightly caramelized. Add thyme and deglaze with Spicebox whisky. Add 1 cup of cream and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Strain solids into a blender and blend until smooth. Add more cream, if the purée is too thick. Season with salt and pepper. Strain through fine-mesh sieve.

Caramelized onion purée

3 large Spanish onions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic
1 sprig rosemary, finely chopped
¼ cup butter
2 ounces whisky, such as Spicebox Whisky
Kosher salt
Toasted black pepper (ground)

Melt the butter in a large pan over medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until golden brown. Deglaze with whisky then add the rosemary. Place into a blender and blend until smooth, adding a splash of water (or whisky), if it is too thick. Season with salt and pepper and pass through a fine-mesh strainer.

Mushroom and buckwheat chip

250 mL beer, Stalwart Bad Moon Rye
160 grams white bread
50 grams mushroom purée
1 tablespoon buckwheat, toasted
1½ grams xanthan gum
Salt to taste

Add the beer, bread, mushroom purée and buckwheat into a blender and blend until smooth. Add xanthan gum and blend until fully incorporated.

Season with salt and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Spread thin onto a Silpat- or parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake in a convection oven at 325 F for 8 to 12 minutes or until the cracker is slightly toasted and no longer moist.

The vegetables

2 to 3 of each vegetable per plate, such as mini turnips, Globe carrots, Brussels sprouts (leaves only) King oyster mushrooms, broccoli and multi-coloured cauliflower florets, Swiss chard.

Garnish with buckwheat sprouts, Adzuki sprouts, carrot fronds and begonias (optional).

Clean, trim and toss carrots and turnips in canola oil with some salt. Place on a baking sheet and roast in oven at 400 F until tender (about 15 minutes).

Score king oyster mushrooms and sear in a pan (score side down) with butter over medium-high heat. Flip over, season and let finish in warm butter.

Cut and sauté broccoli and cauliflower in butter until tender. Add Swiss chard and Brussels sprout leaves. Deglaze with a splash of white wine and let wilt. Season with salt

and pepper.

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